Finger Nail Jewellery and the correct alloy
When looking at all jewellery types such as earrings, necklace, bracelets and finger rings, the fingernail jewellery is the most heavily strained piece of jewellery.
Due to the fact that hands are the most interactive part of each person that has the highest unprotected contact rate with our surrounding environment. Contemplating this, everyone can easily identify quickly how many times one’s hands and fingers make contact with different types of surface materials in our every day live.
One of the biggest culprit is the handbag that often contains a lot of items of surprise that can demand a lot from finger nail jewellery at times. The bunch of keys for example when being searched for in the endless regions of a ladies handbag can often enough be a challenge for all nail jewellery.
Let us look at the different metals that can be used to make nail jewellery.
Silver or Sterling Silver
It is the softest metal that has its own special properties or shall we say appearance. If its surface is not given a treatment like “90 hardsilver”, “electrolytic silver plating” or “rhodium plating” it will age with time showing micro scratches and even change its shade in colour if not being worn for some time. This can be called the patina effect. It can be achieved artificially with Silver Patina to oxidize the surface.
Life expectancy of Sterling Silver Nail Jewellery can be 5 years. With appropriate handling and care even longer.
Yellow Gold at 14kt or 585/1000
What fine gold ratio in gold jewellery is seen as being acceptable to be called a gold jewellery, is a question that can be discussed endlessly. At the end it’s a matter of cultural historic habit what is accepted and what not.
To answer this question, it only takes one aspect that needs to be cleared. Should a jewellery piece be called “gold jewellery” if the quantity of gold contained in it is only 1/3 of the total metal weight? This means that a jewellery piece that is stamped with 8kt - 333/1000 has only 33.3% gold. The rest is copper and silver with some adding’s for different colours like red gold, yellow gold or white gold.
For our jewellery line we decided 25 years ago to only use a 14kt 585/1000 alloy for all our finger nail jewellery. 14kt gold is hard and has a stronger yellow colour that matches better to 18kt 750/1000 gold.
The question that comes up now is
1 - why 14kt – 585/1000 alloy
2 - why not take 18kt – 750/1000 alloy into consideration.
Well, 18kt - 750/1000 is too soft for nail jewellery and will not have the required strength like 14kt. On the other hand most top jewellery designers only offer their designs in 18kt yellow and white gold.
It always was and always will be our aim to build a bridge between the requirements for nail jewellery and the jewellery of top international jewellery houses. This makes our nail jewellery wearable with all top designer jewellery.
White Gold at 14kt or 585/1000
For white gold we basically have the same reasons for using 14kt 585/1000 alloy.
One aspect does come additionally into consideration.
White gold gets its colour by adding additional metals to the alloy mixture. There
are different possibilities available. Not wanting to go into this too deeply, we need to mention that we use “palladium” to obtain the white gold colour. Unfortunately there are a lot of offers on the open market that offer white gold with a rhodium coating and is sold with the statement 'special and high quality', but it is at times only a way to cover up a bad white gold alloy.
Dou to consumer complaints, misuses and lack of control the World Gold Council and the MJSA launched the White Gold Task Force. Applying the ASTM Yellowness Index D1925 canonised.
There are 3 different levels of quality for white gold.
1. Premium White for alloys on which no rhodium plating is needed to make them appear white.
2. Standard White and for alloys where plating is optional and may be needed.
3. Off White or alloys where plating is definitely needed.
All white gold items that cannot be allocated to the 3 qualities are classified a Poor White.